Archive for March, 2008

more from Tao of Tea

I thought that my first foray into the world of pu-er warranted its own entry. Today I’ll discuss three other teas that came with the pu-er in my recent Tao of Tea order: one black, one green, one oolong.

Black Bear Second Flush Darjeeling ($3.50/oz.) – This is an excellent tea. The website describes it as having a “fragrant, floral-rose aroma with a hint of camphor.” Not sure I get the camphor, but the flowery quality is definitely there. One of the best second flush Darjeelings I’ve had, although I still have to confess a slight preference for the first flush. The dry tea is beautiful to look at, consisting of long, chocolate-colored curls of leaves, the buds covered in fine, silver hairs.

Sencha Kenjyo ($18.00/oz.) – Yes, $18 an ounce is very expensive and I’m not likely to splurge like that again in the near future, but this stuff is really good. An ounce (which is all I ordered) goes a very long way with this tea. The leaves are emerald green and very finely chopped into tiny needles. Only a tiny amount of leaf is required to make a big pot of an almost fluorescent green brew. The scent is amazing, a bit like fresh spinach. I had always been a little puzzled by reading descriptions of some teas as “buttery,” but now I know what a buttery tea tastes like. It has a rich, coating dairy-like mouth feel that I have not encountered in green tea before. This definitely opened my eyes to the amount of diversity in Japanese greens and I will be trying more of these.

Strong Fire Oolong ($3.00/oz.) – This is a highly roasted Tie Guan Yin from Taiwan. I was a little scared when I first examined the dry tea. It looks and smells like charcoal. I didn’t see how the brew could taste any way other than burnt. As it turns out, the tea is not half bad. It has kind of a toasty, grainy quality that reminds me a little of Postum, if any of you remember that stuff, or maybe Hojicha. Definitely not a great oolong, but not bad for the price and certainly interesting. I’m drinking a third infusion of it right now and I could probably get more out of it if I wanted to.

Pu-erh Tea

There comes a time in the life of every tea geek when he or she will become curious about pu-er. This is because there are tea geeks out there who seem to think that pu-er is just about the only tea worth drinking. There are entire blogs devoted to pu-er (see, for instance, Ancient Tea Horse Road).

Pu-er is Chinese fermented tea. It is sometimes sold loose, but is usually pressed into discs, bricks, or small bowl-shaped nuggets (tuocha). It is made from a large-leaved tea variety (Camellia sinensis var. assamica). The most prized and expensive pu-er is made from wild tea trees, although I imagine the stuff I’m drinking, at $1.75/oz. is probably made from plantation tea. In days of yore, the fermentation was a product of aging, but since about 1975 the Chinese have employed a ripening process to imitate the effects of aging. The ripening involves “piling, dampening, and turning the tea leaves in a manner much akin to composting” (from Wikipedia’s pu-er article). Based on the smell of the stuff, the reference to composting did not surprise me.

In an adventurous moment, I added 2 oz. of tuocha pu-er to a recent Tao of Tea order. The little bowls are wrapped in paper, each of them about the size of a nickel. The odor of the dry tea definitely says “compost.” When brewed, it says “COMPOST!!!”. I rinsed the tea briefly and then brewed for about five minutes. The color of the liquor is very dark. A cup of pu-er looks like a cup of coffee, although maybe a little redder.

Faced with something that looks like mud and smells like compost, my hopes were not very high, but I was pleasantly surprised by the taste. It doesn’t taste like tea. The overall impression is more like a broth of some sort than like tea. It’s very mellow and has no astringency. It reminds me a little of shitake mushrooms.

I think the tea suffered from my very American way of making tea. I generally brew tea in a 2-cup teapot and then pour it out into an American-sized mug adorned with the cast of Star Trek: The Next Generation. (Hey, Picard was a tea drinker.) A great big mug of pu-er is a very mixed blessing. I would like to try pu-er in a gong-fu context, where the emphasis is on really savoring a small amount of well-made tea. (Watch this video if you don’t know what gong-fu is.)

I don’t see myself ever becoming a serious pu-er enthusiast. The teas I like best are bright, fruity Darjeelings, which are the polar opposite of pu-er. But I’m definitely glad I tried it, if only to see what the fuss is about.

Sage RSS Reader

A while back I wrote a post called A Few of My Favorite Things, detailing a few products that I thought made the web a more interesting place.

I’m afraid today I’m going to have to complain about a product that has let me down. The Sage RSS reader is a Firefox plugin that allows you to subscribe to RSS or Atom feeds. It displays them (in categories if you wish) in a tool bar on the left side of your browser window. Reading through your favorite blogs is effortless.

Until it fails. About a week ago, my Sage feeds just vanished. I opened up Sage and it was empty. I tried to re-subscribe to some feeds, but it wouldn’t let me. So I uninstalled it, redownloaded, and reinstalled it. It still won’t let me subscribe to feeds. I might have written this off as some kind of fluke unique to my aging iBook, but then a week or so later the exact same thing happened on the brand new iMac that I use at work.

I’ve done a little googling looking for people with similar complaints, but no luck so far. So, any Sage fans out there wanna tell me what I’m doing wrong? Any Mozilla folks want to defend the integrity of your product? Write a comment. Meanwhile, I guess I’ll be trying to find all those blog links and either subscribe to them using the built-in “Live Bookmarks” feature of Firefox of just add them to my del.icio.us bookmarks.

Tallis Scholars

Last night I attended a performance by the Tallis Scholars at Ithaca College. I’ve been a fan of theirs for some years. I became interested in Renaissance sacred music sometime in the early ’90s and if I remember correctly, the first CD I bought was the TS recording of two of Josquin’s L’Homme Arme masses.

I’ve since collected a number of their discs and once attended a concert that they gave at Duke Chapel. That must have been around 1995. Duke Chapel is of course a beautiful setting for a concert, but is an acoustic disaster, especially if you’re sitting way back in the nave. So I left that concert disappointed that I still had not really heard the Tallis Scholars live.

Last night’s concert was far more more enjoyable. The first half of the program included works of four Portuguese composers, who I confess I’d never heard of before. These were Manuel Mendes (c.1547-1605), Manuel Cardoso (1566-1650), Duarte Lobo (c.1565-1646), and Diogo Diaz Melgás (1638-1700). All of these works were interesting, but a few stood out to me for textual as well as musical reasons.

The Scholars performed a couple verses of lamentations by Cardoso, a Carmelite monk. These have a strange textual feature in that composers would set the Hebrew letters by which the sections are designated to music. This particular work featured elaborate melismas on “Vau” and “Zain.” Strangely, this compositional practice made me think of Stephen Jay Gould’s “Spandrels of San Marco” paper in which he asserts that much evolution progresses by the “exaptation” of random structures for useful purposes. He compares this to the spandrels in the Cathedral of San Marco, vaguely triangular areas that are simply a by-product of setting a round dome on a square base, but which are used to great artistic effect by painters. Similarly, these uninteresting Hebrew letters give composers a chance to construct exquisite counterpoint, freed of the need to follow an actual text.

Melgás was an exceptionally conservative composer for his time and the two four voice motets that the Scholars performed sounded notably less modern than the older works which preceded them on the program. I was struck by one of these because of the text:

Domine, hominem non haveo ut, cum turbata fuerit aqua, mittat me in piscinam: Dum venio enim ego, alius ante me descendit.


Lord, I have no-one to lead me into the pool when the waters are disturbed: for while I make my way, another climbs down before me.

This passage is from a story in the Gospel of St. John in which Jesus encounters a man who has been sick for 38 years and who has been trying to make his way into a sacred pool called Bethzatha in Jerusalem. Jesus tells him simply “Stand up, take your mat and walk” and the man is healed. The effect of Melgás’s setting of this mundane, if not whiny, text was startling and almost psalm-like, making of the beggar’s complaint a new testament De Profundis.

Immediately following this Melgás motet, the Scholars performed a Magnificat secundi toni by Cardoso. This piece is from Cardoso’s first publication in 1613. Like the Melgás, it is not an adventurous piece, but is beautiful nonetheless. Each verse began with plainchant statements by the tenors, out of which the polyphony would blossom as the verse proceeded. The Magnificat is a favorite text of mine, and apparently of the musically inclined in general, since it is so often set. My CD collection includes Magnificat settings by Orlando Gibbons, Françoise Couperin, Claudio Monteverdi, and of course J.S. Bach. The text is the song of praise sung by the Virgin Mary upon learning that she is carrying the child of God.

Magnificat anima mea Dominum
Et exultavit spiritus meus in Deo salutari meo.
Quia respexit humilitatem ancillæ suæ: ecce enim ex hoc beatam me dicent omnes generationes.
Quia fecit mihi magna qui potens est, et sanctum nomen eius.
Et misericordia eius a progenie in progenies timentibus eum.
Fecit potentiam in brachio suo, dispersit superbos mente cordis sui.
Deposuit potentes de sede et exaltavit humiles.
Esurientes implevit bonis et divites dimisit inanes,
Suscepit Israel puerum suum recordatus misericordiæ suæ,
Sicut locutus est ad patres nostros, Abraham et semini eius in sæcula.


My soul doth magnify the Lord.
And my spirit hath rejoiced in God my Saviour.
Because he hath regarded the humility of his handmaid; for behold from henceforth all generations shall call me blessed.
Because he that is mighty, hath done great things to me; and holy is his name.
And his mercy is from generation unto generations, to them that fear him.
He hath shewed might in his arm: he hath scattered the proud in the conceit of their heart.
He hath put down the mighty from their seat, and hath exalted the humble.
He hath filled the hungry with good things; and the rich he hath sent empty away.
He hath received Israel his servant, being mindful of his mercy:
As he spoke to our fathers, to Abraham and to his seed for ever.

It is a text with great emotional potential as well as many opportunities for word painting. Composers seem to especially like to use diverging or chaotic lines on “dispersit superbos” and to use plurality of notes and sounds on “omnes generations.” And once you’ve heard Bach’s contagious fugue on “sicut locutus est” you’ll never be able to not hear it when you encounter those words in other music.

After the intermission, the program moved from Portugal to Spain and from the scattered offerings of relatively minor composers to a masterpiece by one of the giants of the Renaissance. The Requiem a6 of Tomás Luis de Victoria is a powerful work, with an emotional impact that is not often encountered in Renaissance sacred music. This requiem was published in 1605 (the year of the English gunpowder plot) and was Victoria’s final publication. He wrote it for the 1603 funeral of his patroness the Dowager Empress Maria of Austria, sister of Phillip II of Spain. The highlight of the mass is a liturgical oddity, a passage from Job inserted after the Communio.

Versa est in luctum cithara mea et organum meum in vocem flentium. Parce mihi Domine, nihil enim sunt dies mei.


My harp is tuned to mourning and my organ into the voice of those that weep. Spare me, O Lord, for my days are nothing.

Victoria’s setting of this short passage soars. It exemplifies perfectly the Spanish Renaissance in its combination of passionate longing and sublime poise. The Tallis Scholars brought the passage alive with special credit going to their sopranos. Overall, the concert was excellent and was a valuable opportunity to hear music that is not often performed.